A history of China’s first successful railway and how a Hebei museum park reveals the forces that tried to derail it

Standing a few blocks east of Tiananmen Square, Beijing Railway Station is one of the Ten Great Buildings constructed in 1959 to commemorate the 10th anniversary of Communist Party rule in China.In 2019, at the tail end of the Lunar New Year, entering this faux-Ming eulogy to so­cial­­ist liberation proved almost as challenging as getting into the Forbidden City during the actual Ming dynasty would have been.Our IDs were checked every 100 yards or so by security person­nel managing New Year…

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