What’s the best way to cook lap cheong? Inside the humble Chinese dried sausage’s centuries-old history, plus recipes and tips from Hong Kong experts

The Chinese dried sausages known as lap cheong have existed for about a millennia, since the Wei and Jin dynasties, according to the history books. The technique of stuffing sausages was first recorded in the Qimin Yaoshu, the agricultural chronicle credited to official Jia Sixie and dated to AD544 (literally translated as Essential Techniques for the Welfare of the People).If you grew up as a member of the Chinese diaspora, lap cheong and traditional liver sausages offered a ready lifeline to…

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